I’ve been very busy in the shop these past few evenings getting two beautiful 680s finished up for a customer (the repairs include some faceplate reconstruction - more
on that later) and while I’m waiting for skins to arrive, I figure I’d spend
some time taking inventory of my donor cameras and see what can be gathered to
build four camera bodies. Some chassis had been bent, busted hinges, nasty Fresnel
lenses, broken shutter boards, cracked mirrors... but I found some really good
parts that will make some very beautiful cameras that will eventually be up for
sale. I figure I would post a brief rundown of how I build my cameras but skip
the micro details like soldering, adjustments, and cussing.
Part 1 will go
through the chassis and body build as the four shutter/sonar assemblies were
built earlier this week (pic on Instagram) and all I have to simply do is mount
them to the shutter board and solder the flex cable in place. Please pay no
mind to the clutter as the pics progress… I try to clean as I go but sometimes
the parts and tools stack up quickly and I end up in an avalanche of what looks like disaster on
the work table.
First I started with a bare chassis that was in great shape. It’s not entirely bare as all the mounting posts and some components are
there but it’s missing the counter assembly, gear train, motor, flex cable,
shutter/sonar, and fresnel/taking mirror carrier.
Next I found a good film counter assembly that had the
switch contacts mounted properly. Sometimes when unsoldering the flex cable,
the mushroomed heat stakes can melt off releasing the contacts. I’ve learned to
lower my iron heat and unsolder away from the stake points.
Next was to mount the Fresnel carrier in place. As a side
note, I make sure to gently clean the lenses before assembly. The Fresnel surface
is unbelievably fragile and even some of the slightest scratches will show up
in the viewfinder.
Next up is the gear train.
At this time I had an “oh darn” moment (I used different
words) when I found that the donor rear mirror cover had a broken hinge. There
was a reason this was in my parts bin in the first place I guess. Since the
bellows are riveted to the shutter board on this model I decided to scrap this
chassis and start over but using a chassis from a black plastic model. I really
like the BC Series black and chrome look anyway so this little oversight will
work to my advantage.
OK… fast forward an hour - I got all the previous parts
mounted on the new chassis, installed the gear train, and closed the camera up.
Next up is the flex circuit with a reconditioned motor. I
try to only use parts from similar models especially when it comes to
electronics as many improvements were made as the camera evolved that aren’t
compatible with earlier cameras. For example, there would be potential for all
kinds of problems if I were to use an early model shutter substrate with a
later model flex circuit that has a later style motor control circuit or MCC.
That’s about it for the body. I made some alignment
adjustments and ran the gear train through several cycles to make sure
everything will work properly. Then I mounted the shutter assembly to the
chassis and ran several cycles. So far so good!
Finishing up, I found some good parts that will look
fantastic when cleaned up and did a dry fit. There will still need to be some
optical adjustments as there is a bit of shadow in the viewfinder. This is
mostly due to the camera’s geometry becoming misaligned over years of use. It's not pretty yet but after an evening of cleaning this is going to look fantastic!
Stay tuned for Part 2 next week which will involve parts
cleaning, reskin, and final adjustments. Shop’s closed!